How to fix engine coolant temperature

how to fix engine coolant temperature

How to Fix a Temperature Gauge

Sep 16, †Ј There are a lot of issues that could trigger the engine code P Below are just some of the possible causes of P Defective engine coolant temp sensor. Cooling system problems leading to engine overheating. Damaged or corroded engine coolant temp wiring or connection. Air pocket in the coolant System. PCM victorsfc.comted Reading Time: 7 mins. Aug 20, †Ј P means УInsufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation,Ф while P means УEngine Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature.Ф If the P occurs with one of these, youТll need to look up their causes and symptoms so you can determine the cause of this engine problem more victorsfc.comted Reading Time: 6 mins.

Once an engine reaches a certain temperature, parts can begin to seize, warp or score, all of which are catastrophic in automotive terms. I believe the cooling system is an often neglected area of motoring considering its importance, especially in high-revving and torquey performance cars that will generate a serious amount of heat.

The thermostat sits how to fix engine coolant temperature the radiator and the engine and is effectively a temperature-controlled coolant regulator. It restricts coolant from coursing through the engine block until the engine has warmed up to a sufficient temperature, helping it reach operating temperature quicker.

Initially staying closed, the thermostat will open what is spanish fly drop between degrees centigrade, opening a valve and allowing the cooling system to do its thing.

A broken thermostat can stay closed, blocking much-needed coolant from coursing around the engine. This means that the thermostat is not doing its job of keeping the engine within its average operating temperature, potentially leading to overheating if unnoticed.

Electrolysis within the radiator can lead to nasty sediment building an insulating layer around the coolant hosing leading to a lack of coolant flow and heat transfer. The hoses can also begin to crack due to the amount of heat cycles they have undergone, contracting and expanding until the material properties of the tubes begin to change. The radiator fan sits behind or in-front of the radiator and is used to pull airflow through the heat exchanger to aid cooling.

With many cars using an electronically-controlled fan that switches on once the engine reaches a certain temperature, if the electrics were to fail or a fan blade was to get damaged by incoming debris, the flow rate of the airflow could be depleted enough for overheating to occur. On older cars that use a fan belt, a similar situation will occur if the belt is damaged or snapped.

A duff waterpump will also put your engine in danger. Coolant needs to be flowing at a specific rate throughout the cooling channels within the engine block and then through the radiator via hosing.

If the impeller within the waterpump seizes or breaks, this flowrate will slow down or stop, decreasing the interaction between the coolant and the hot areas within the engine. As you all know, oil is used to both lubricate and somewhat cool the moving parts within an engine. This means that the lubrication system is lacking fluid which will see friction within the engine increasing, leading to a build-up of heat.

This heat energy accumulation can surpass the capacity of the cooling system and if unnoticed could lead to an engine literally welding itself together, potentially seizing the pistons. In terms of causes of coolant loss, this is the daddy of them all. A loss of fluid within the cooling system decreases the amount of heat transfer from the engine to the coolant, leading to overheating if left to dip below a minimum operating level.

The head gasket sits between the block and the cylinder head with its job being to thermally expand with the engine and seal coolant chambers, oil routing and the cylinders apart from each other. This is essentially the water curdling with the oil and if left to its own devices could lead to the gradual overheating of your car. If the water temperature is steady but sits higher than it should from stock, this could be the source of the problem. Although the coolant routing is a closed system, small inlets can appear over time that air can creep within, causing pockets of how to setup xbox with hdmi gas.

These pockets of air can accumulate and block the free flow of coolant. It can also simulate a high coolant level when in fact there may not be enough to keep the car cool.

This is because the air pushes the coolant upwards in the reservoir, simulating the required level needed for adequate cooling. Bleeding a cooling system of air is a simple but worthwhile job and can potentially save your pride and joy from a dreaded overheating scenario.

Other causes can be that the coolant is not concentrated enough, the radiator could be damaged or the serpentine belt for the waterpump could be knackered. Have you experienced any cooling nightmares? Comment with your experiences below! Please confirm you agree to the use of tracking cookies as outlined in the Cookies Policy. Sign in or register. Michael Fernie 4 years ago Remind me later.

Share Tweet Email Whatsapp. Defective thermostat. Degraded hosing, fan or waterpump KB. Lack of oil. Head gasket failure 33 KB. Air in the cooling system. Sort by Best Sort by Latest. Show Comments. Sign in to your Car Throttle account Before you sign in Please confirm you agree to the use of tracking cookies as outlined in the Cookies Policy.

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Mar 13, †Ј Locate the coolant temperature sensor in your vehicle by referring to the service manual. Find the coolant temperature sensor and remove the connector plugs. If you have two pins on the coolant temperature sensor, you can try ohm measure between these two pins. Check your repair manual for the correct ohm-value at a given victorsfc.comted Reading Time: 9 mins. May 13, †Ј Add coolant and place the cap back on the reservoir. Lower your car. Start the engine. Wait to see if the temperature gauge reads correctly. Take a test victorsfc.comted Reading Time: 6 mins. Apr 20, †Ј The average cost for engine coolant temperature sensor replacement is between $ and $ Labor costs are estimated between $82 and $ while parts are priced between $41 and $ This range does not include taxes and fees, and does not factor in your specific vehicle or unique location. Related repairs may also be needed.

Here's How to Fix It. Cars tend to overheat at the most inopportune time. Typically you're stuck in traffic and the needle starts to rise, along with your blood pressure. It's no fun, but in most cases you can easily prevent your car from overheating the coolant. The first thing to know is that the gauge in your car typically measures the temperature of the coolant, not the oil.

Oil helps to also cool the engine, particularly the reciprocating parts within. Outside of the US the antifreeze may also be Propylene Glycol, or PG for short, due to its improved ecological nature including a reduced toxicity to animals. Ethylene glycol, aka antifreeze, is added to the water to increase the boiling temperature of the coolant and to also reduce the freezing temperature. This puts the engine in a sweet spot for fuel efficiency.

That's why the cooling system is pressurized, and why you have a fancy radiator cap instead of a milk jug lid. The first thing to do is to turn on the heater full blast.

The heater uses the coolant to warm the air, thus it will act like a small, second radiator and help to cool down the coolant. The air will be very warm, so on a warm day I recommend rolling down the windows to avoid suffering.

Third, make sure you are maintaining awareness and traveling at a safe speed. Go ahead and move over to the exit or turn lane and look for a suitable place to stop.

Avoid the side of the road, it's not a safe place to be, especially at night or with fast traffic. You'll want to also avoid hard acceleration as this can cause detonation and make overheating worse.

Lastly, go ahead and turn off the engine once you've stopped. If there is steam coming from underneath the hood, go ahead and leave the hood closed. There could be boiling coolant being sprayed through a blown hose, or another safety issue. Once it subsides, go ahead and pop the hood to let everything cool down faster.

It will take about 20 - 30 minutes for the engine to cool down on average. If it's cold outside, this will be closer to 10 - 15 minutes, and if it's a hot summer day, it could take an hour. You can speed this up by turning the ignition to the "ON" position without starting the engine if the vehicle has electric fans.

I recommend letting the fans run for only a few minutes, they pull quite a bit of energy out of the battery. There are a number of scenarios that typically occur. I will give the symptoms and try to explain the causality for each scenario, as each is indicative of specific issues.

The most common cause of overheating at low speeds is the lack of airflow through the radiator. This can be due to radiator damage high numbers of bent fins , but is most likely due to a faulty electric fan assembly, fan clutch, or fan switch. Also check to ensure the radiator is not obstructed by leaves or trash. Low coolant is only one reason why engines will overheat. Poor airflow, blocked passages, old hoses, bad radiator caps, blown headgaskets can all cause overheating.

It's important to look at when the car overheats and inspect each component involved in that failure. The biggest cause of this is a faulty thermostat that is stuck closed. A damaged radiator, low coolant, faulty radiator cap, or obstructed radiator can also be at fault. Check to make sure nothing is blocking your front bumper openings.

If the radiator cap were to be at fault you most likely would see steam from boiling coolant. Assuming everything is in working order, this typically is because you have an undersized radiator for your application.

This is a problem that can have a series of causalities, but the most typical problem is an obstruction in the interior core of the radiator, limiting its ability to cool and flow coolant. Just because the gauge says the engine is running hot, does not mean the gauge or its sender unit itself is not faulty.

This kind of situation is really cut down to two things: air in the coolant system or a thermostat with a sense of humor. This can be the same issue as above, see: driven hard, but a special consideration is the radiator hoses. At high flow rates the low-pressure side of the water pump can cause the radiator hose to collapse, restricting flow. The gauge does not work linearly in the vast majority of vehicles.

This is due to how the coolant temp sensor operates, and also means that the gauge is not a very reliable measure of just how hot the engine is running. It could be a few degrees above a normal range or it could be ready to boil over. As the coolant temperature rises the Engine Control Unit, the computer running your engine, begins to take measures to protect the engine.

It will reduce ignition timing and increase the amount of fuel injected into the engine. Both of these measures will reduce the amount of heat generated by only a small amount, but are in place to primarily prevent detonation or knock from hammering the pistons, rods, bearings, and crankshaft to death. The cooling system itself begins to pressurize due to the entire cooling system being sealed and the expanding coolant.

This pressure aids in many ways. The first is increasing the boiling temperature of the coolant to prevent boil-off, and other benefits include increased nucleate boiling threshold to prevent overheating of internal surfaces, particularly the combustion chamber roof and exhaust ports. If those surfaces were to be superheated they would succumb to cracking or deformation along with causing run-away detonation inside the combustion chamber.

Within the cooling system the primary line of defense from overheating is the fan. The fan can be a large mechanical fan, or they can be electric fans mounted to the radiator. In the case of the mechanical fan, a thermally sensitive clutch engages when the warm air being pulled through the radiator heats it up. This drives the big fan and pulls a lot of airflow through the radiator. In the case of electrical fans they rely on information from the ECU on when to turn on and run.

If the fan is unable to pull air through the radiator then the coolant temperatures will continue to rise. Typically at this point you are at a low speed or even at a stop.

This means air is not being pushed through the radiator and it is unable to exchange the heat necessary to cool the coolant. Since there is no way to pull heat out of the coolant the temperature will continue to increase. Initially the coolant will begin to boil off within the engine where heated surfaces are exchanging heat energy to the coolant. This promotes nucleate boiling which increases the rate of exchange, however with the coolant being unable to shed the heat via the radiator it will begin to create larger bubbles until it finally creates a vapor barrier between the hot metal surface and the coolant itself.

From that point the engine will begin to knock heavily until the piston, rod bearing, or rod fails. While that process is occurring internally the coolant in the radiator continues to expand, creating additional pressure.

The radiator cap regulates the coolant system pressure; hence why they have a pressure measurement in PSI or BAR on the label. The pressure will continue to build until the radiator cap opens and allows the expanding coolant volume to bypass the radiator and fill the coolant overflow tank. The downside to this is that by reducing the amount of coolant volume in the system you are also effectively reducing the thermal energy capacity of the cooling system.

This causes the temperature to rise quicker than before. Pressure also has a positive effect on water pump design, because it can prevent damaging cavitation at higher pump impeller speeds. Either the reciprocating mass pistons, rods, crankshaft, etc. If coolant leaks through a headgasket or a cracked cylinder head into the combustion chamber in sufficient volume the engine will hydro-lock and at a bare minimum crush a connecting rod in a most spectacular fashion. An engine will run hot because of many reasons.

There are a couple of important elements to an automotive cooling system. They are the radiator, hoses, water jacket, water pump, overflow reservoir, and thermostat. The radiator is located at the front of the car and pulls heat energy out of the coolant. As airflow pushes through the fins of the radiator it takes with it the thermal energy.

The radiator is connected with rubber or silicone hoses to the thermostat housing which holds the vitally important thermostat. The thermostat acts like a traffic light to regulate the operating temperature of the coolant. It remains closed when the coolant is too cool and opens to allow coolant to cycle through the radiator. Typically there will be a pair of silicone or rubber hoses that extend from the back of the engine into the passenger cabin to supply warm coolant to your heater core.

Once out of the engine, the coolant travels back to the radiator, thus completing the heat exchange cycle. Your owners manual will have a maintenance schedule that covers when you should replace the coolant, belts, hoses, and other items. They are organized generally by mileage, i.

Failure to replace these items on time can lead to additional failures, not just overheating. Coolant, aka "anti-freeze", not only improves the operating temperature range, but it also contains anti-corrosion additives to prevent the build-up of rust within the engine. Rust will reduce the efficiency of the cooling system greatly by insulating the engine, restricting flow, causing water pump cavitation, and eventually blocking coolant passages in the engine, heater, and radiator.

It's very important to replace the coolant on-time. Distilled water is pH neutral and free of minerals which can cause corrosion and scale. It's extremely important that you use the proper coolant for your engine. The additives and chemical properties of coolant vary and must be matched to your vehicle to avoid overheating and prevent corrosion.

Your vehicle manufacturer will let you know which coolant is suitable, but you can also double check that your vehicle is listed on aftermarket coolant jugs, usually on the front or back. Coolant is often differentiated by it's color. Green, gold, orange, and blue are commonly used colors to visually differentiate the different formulations out there. It's not a hard rule that you need to use one color or another, there are exceptions.

If in doubt, run the OEM coolant. The OEM coolant recommendations often will include engine-specific additive updates that are important. Subaru, for example, has an additive that helps to prevent headgasket failure in earlier EJ-series engines.

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