How to build a portable speaker system

how to build a portable speaker system

How to Build Custom Speakers

Mar 17,  · Denon DJ Envoi Portable Battery Powered Speaker System. Weighing slightly less than twice the weight of the Behringer, and with W of amplification when run on its hour rechargeable battery, the Denon DJ Envoi uses a 10" woofer and a high frequency compression driver to deliver a full-frequency victorsfc.coms: 2. Jun 24,  · About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features Press Copyright Contact us Creators.

As always I will have the laser-cut plans, the bkild diagram and the whole parts and tools list how to beat marijuana drug test the steps below. Make sure you check my YouTube video first and then come back for more details. Let's get started! How to build a portable speaker system this build it is necessary to get the plywood panels laser cut.

Since I do not own a laser-cutter myself, I outsourced a few people from a local company that were able to laser cut the plywood pieces out for me. You can find the Laser Cut Plans below. It is possible that the scale of the drawing might be messed up, so just for reference - the diameter of the hole next to the Bluetooth and WiFi logo on the back panel is supposed to be 1.

Those holes are for the LEDs. You should receive 5 different plywood panels - two front panels, two back panels and the enclosure template.

Also, there is a plywood disc included in the plans which you should take care not to lose. It is for the volume control potentiometer. Same goes for a circle cutout near the battery logo what is a competency hearing it will be used as a button.

Since the tweeters that I used are no longer buld sale, I updated the plans for the speaker accordingly. I have also included the wiring diagram which you can download or print but make sure you zoom in for a better and clearer view. Sysgem start the build! For this speaker I decided to try implementing not only Bluetooth 4. Here Spekaer am using the Up2Stream WiFi module which is super easy to use and delivers great sound quality at a reasonable price.

There is also an Aux input which when plugged in automatically disables the Bluetooth or WiFi input letting us make a simpler and cleaner looking speaker with less buttons and switches which buld always pleasing to get rid of.

The speaker is powered by three Lithium Ion cells connected in series, resulting in After testing I can confirm that these cells are able to provide the necessary power for around hours depending on the volume. It delivers plenty of power in to the drivers with plenty of bass and clear highs. One jow the best features of this amplifier is that there is absolutely no audible noise being how to apply for section 8 housing in clarksville tn when the speaker is not playing.

I have tried many Class D amplifier and I can truly say sspeaker this one is top of the range in it's price point. Nowadays there are many boards superior to this one but it still performs great, delivers unobstructed sound and connects instantly to the streaming device.

I chose the main building material for the enclosure to be 12mm MDF. You can also use plywood instead and skip the painting step and still achieve a great looking result. The overall width of the guild needs to be at least 70mm wide therefore my intention was to cut out 6 layers of 12mm MDF resulting in a width of around 72 millimeters give or take. I used a relatively large sheet of MDF and traced around the template 6 times making sure to leave a gap between each template tracing to hpw for the jigsaw blade to cut out the what are cox 1 inhibitors without interference to other pieces.

It is important to trace the outside and the inside of the template. It is not necessary though to be exact with the tracing since we will adjust the lines and the curves with a router sysgem. Once the tracing has been done, I took jow forstner bit and drilled in every corner of the traced out template making sure to stay a bit away from portale inside lines. It is important to drill only halfway through to avoid any tear out on the other side.

Once all the corners have been drilled halfway through, I took a drill nuild and drilled all the way through to the other side. I then flipped the sheet around and used the forstner bit again to drill out the holes completely leaving me with smooth edges around. For this step the best tool is portble jigsaw to cut the enclosure pieces out. Take care not to cut into the line, we need to stay as close to the line as possible without cutting past it.

Once the cutting is done, we are left with 6 pieces or less, depending on the thickness of your material how to build a portable speaker system the rough template copy. Next steps sjstem take care of the roughness and will make it more pleasant to hold. This step starts by placing pieces of double-sided how to paint your car at home videos tape around how do i stop missing my ex perimeter of the enclosure template, making sure it is stuck on well.

Once the backing is removed from the tape, it is carefully stuck to the MDF piece we just cut out with decent force applied to get on there real good. It is important to stick the plywood template so that the rough edges are not in the area of the plywood template. I then loaded a flush trim bit in aa my router and started routing. A lot of nasty MDF dust will be made so make sure you use a dust collection system and a dust mask.

You don't want to breathe this stuff in! Once the flush trim router bit has gone through all the edges around, we are left with a smooth finish around. Sjstem have now copied the plywood template on to ssytem MDF piece with nothing more than a router. My router bit did howw under the plywood template a few times taking a bit of the material here and there therefore you can see that the edges have imperfections here and there.

That is not worry about since I will take care of that later. After a bit of work later, with the template removed, 6 pieces are now complete and are ready for glue up. You can also use plain wood glue, of course. Here I am making sure to spread the glue around each layer evenly. Don't be afraid to use too much glue, the excess can always s;eaker wiped off.

Stacking the layers on top is simple, just have to make sure to keep the aligned to each other and remove the excess glue from the inside and outside. Once the layers have all been stacked sepaker top of each other, I put two boards on each side of the enclosure and clamped it well until the glue has dried. You can also use a few weights instead of clamps. Since I will be spray painting the enclosure in gloss white, I need the enclosure to be as smooth as possible since every dent and imperfection will show through the clear coat.

Once the filler has fully dried it was time for sanding speakef smoothing the enclosure. It is not necessary to take much time on the inside of the speaker since it will not be seen later. I used a belt sander portsble smooth out the edges and curves on the enclosure.

A sanding block can also be used but it would result in a good workout rather than an effective sanding procedure. Once the enclosure has been fully sanded I applied the same filler once again to fill in any small spots that ;ortable appeared. Once that filler is sanded down, the enclosure is now portabke smooth to the touch.

To prepare the laser-cut panels speaekr first need to sand any burn marks that were left from the laser. I used a random orbital sander to quickly take off the burn marks from the panels. Of course, plain sandpaper can also be used. Once the panels were smooth I sprayed them with a few portwble of clear lacquer sanding in between the dried layers of clear lacquer to remove any burrs or bubbles.

That way we will achieve a smooth and glossy finish. I then applied a thin layer of wood glue on a panel and glued it together. You can see in the pictures how the spesker need to be glued together. It is important to make sure that the panels are very well aligned so take care of that as best as you can.

As you can see I should have applied pportable wood glue on the face panel instead rather than the backing of the front panel.

But it is not a huge problem. Once the enclosure has fully dried of the fillers and glue, I used a roundover bit to give a round egde to the enclosure. I made a very light pass on one side of the enclosure and a deeper pass, removing more material on the front side of buikd enclosure. Once that was done, I used some sandpaper to remove any rough edges left by the router.

I then put the back panel in place and drilled the speaoer for the speakdr that sleaker hold the back panel with a small drill bit. I also drilled a hole on the right side of the enclosure for the main switch using a 20 millimeter speker bit. A recess was also drilled for the plywood disc to stay in place. For that I drilled 3mm deep into the enclosure with a forstner bit the size of the plywood disc.

I then used a smaller forstner bit portaboe drill all the way through, leaving a lip around the hole for the disc to rest how to install insulation in attic walls. The plywood disc was then glued in place and sanded down with filler applied to the edges to fill eystem any gaps.

I then drilled four holes on the bottom of the enclosure for the rubber feet. It is a good idea to do this step before painting the enclosure since these holes will come in handy when painting. To paint the enclosure with the color of choice, first of all we need to tackle the tricky nature of MDF panels which is its ability to absorb lots of liquid including paint that contacts its surface.

In order to achieve a nice paint finish on the MDF we need to create a thick layer or a coat that would not absorb the paint in to the pores. I chose Titebond III since it is used for outdoor use and will not be penetrated by liquids. I simply mixed the two and brushed a thick coat portabl it on the MDF enclosure and then let it thoroughly dry overnight in room temperature. Don't be afraid to apply a thick coat of it, the deeper it penetrates in to the MDF - the better.

Once the sealer has fully dried, I speaer some grit sandpaper to rough up the surface for the primer coat to bite apeaker. To begin the painting process I used a paper towel and paint thinner to how to buy a piranha any oils or residue on the surface of the enclosure.

Once the enclosure is clean of any contaminants, I sprayed a few light coats of grey primer. Note the screws on the bottom side - that is how to treat viral hepatitis we drilled the rubber feet mounting holes before painting - we can now use a few screws as stands for the enclosure when painting. I am also holding the enclosure by a bolt that I ran through the potentiometer mounting hole.

After the primer coats have fully dried overnight, I wet sanded the surface with grit sandpaper and a spray bottle full of water. I then applied a few thick coats of gloss white and once that was dry, I applied a few coats of clear lacquer. After that I let z enclosure dry for a few days until the paint thinner smell was gone. On this speaker build I used three passive radiators in total since the are of these three passive radiators is double the size of the are of the woofer cone.

To glue the passive radiators in place I used two component epoxy glue which I spread around the edge of the plywood panel. I then carefully put the passive radiators in place and leaving the epoxy to cure for a few hours.

Step 1: Why?

Jan 29,  · Step 1: Plans. For this build it is necessary to get the plywood panels laser cut. Since I do not own a laser-cutter myself, I outsourced a few people from a local company that were able to laser cut the plywood pieces out for me. You can find the Laser Cut Plans victorsfc.comted Reading Time: 11 mins.

Looking for a powerful audio system to blast at a party? Want high fidelity? Easy to build and affordable? This project is for you! Thanks too billbob and his tutorial which helped me get the basics down for this project. You could essentially get by without half of these parts and tools, but it could be done with many other tools and materials so no worries if you are missing a number of the parts and tools!

This is just what I used You will need basic electronic skills, moderate woodworking skills and access to tools, as well as some patience. I am lucky and my Dad let me borrow a whole lot of his tools but you may need to improvise and borrow friends tools or hope that home depot or Menards or wherever you bought your wood will cut the pieces down to the size you need.

Here are most of the tools recommended. You could get by with half of these tools if you have too. First thing to figure out is what drivers you use. It produces excellent bass for the cabinet size and woofer size. I chose a Lanzer car amplifier because it is powerful watt rms and small.

So either way it costs the same. I chose 10ga wire because low gauge wire is overrated when it comes to making short connections. I used a 2" port but given that you are probably not building this project the exact same as mine, I won't provide the details here find all the details to my project at the end of the tutorial. The car amplifier will require a power supply providing 12v. Once you have figured out which drivers you want to use, look up their space requirements.

If you get your drivers from parts-express. If not, do a quick google search on it. My particular size is 0. I am porting my speakers for more bass volume. The box is tuned to 44hz. Also, some drivers sound better without porting. Once you have figured out what size cabinet you need, figure out the dimensions of the cabinet. Remember to include the width of the wood. Here is a handy calculator for figuring it out. I used this calculator for figuring out port length.

Sooooo now that we have reached step you are well on your way. I spent a whole month searching around for what would meet my needs mostly looking for sales because I am cheap. It had cuts in it but I filled those in with wood filler.

If you used the calculator I provided a link to in the previous step you can adjust the dimensions of the box until you like it. Then, mark out and cut your pieces. Remember to mark only what you are about to cut so that you don't have to include the thickness of the saw blade.

Cut it, then mark out the next piece and cut it. Make sure to make all sides parallel to each other or you will have a ton of sanding and filling to do later. Then, measure out and draw the circles for the speaker holes.

Double check, then drill a pilot hole larger than the blade on the jig saw. Cut around the markings and test fit your speakers.

I didn't countersink the edge because it is a very small edge and barely noticed. Now that you have your pieces ready to be glued and screwed; put one edge flush against a wood vice and put the corresponding piece to a right angle on the edge of the other piece.

Put wood glue where the wood meets to help make the box more air-tight and stronger. Then clamp everything in place. Do the same for all the sides that can be put in the vice. I did not use a vice to screw the pieces together, but now I wish I did as it is much easier to keep everything at 90 degrees. You may add bracing inside the box but I chose not to, and it is plenty strong.

If you do you will have a very hard time removing it once it has dried. Do drill holes for screws but don't screw the back on. The back will go on at the very end. You may add handles, but that adds complexities I did not feel like dealing with it and doesn't look nice aesthetically. This is when I realized I wanted to create a tutorial for others so I started taking more pictures : Once your box has been constructed and dried, it is time to fill and sand the gaps.

Once you have filled in any cracks and covered over the screw holes, it is time to prime it. I used a can of primer spray paint and put a light coat on. Then I sanded it down with grit paper and used a damp paper towel and removed any paint particles. It is important to do that every time you sand down anything to do that from now on. Repeat the priming process, sand, prime again, and use a fine grit sandpaper on the final coat. Wipe off really well and let the water dry.

Don't wipe the water off with a paper towel as the fibers in it may stick to the box if you care. Now we are going to add some actual color to it. Whatever your paint pattern is, make sure that you use oil based paint for a very durable finish.

I really wanted to use acrylic based paint, but now I am glad I used oil because it will survive for a long time. I chose a black on yellow squares, but it is much easier and faster to paint everything one solid color. If you are doing squares, paint yellow in the general area that is going to be yellow.

It is way better to go too far over than to not put enough as you can just sand down the extra paint later. Paint one surface, then let it dry for an hour or so. Then, very carefully so as not to touch the semi-wet paint, rotate the box to its upright position. Paint the top and let it sit for another hour or so. Then put down wood blocks or something so that the wet paint doesn't touch the surface of whatever it is sitting on.

Here is a little trick: any surface that is parallel to the other side can just be flipped over degrees and set down even though it has not sat a while because surface tension and gravity will make sure the paint doesn't drip or be uneven.

Saves time and rinsing out paint brush a whole lot. I wipe my paint brush off on the inside of the box to remove the extra paint once I have finished painting for that time. While the paint is drying, you can work on the back panel. I spray painted the back panel red. Figure out how you are going to position everything like amp, psu, hole for wires to come through, and control box.

Drill pilot holes for everything. I used a coffee tin for the control box. I drilled a hole for each component. Make sure to back the metal tin with something like wood so it does not rip the metal instead of making a clean hole. You can see a hole that I made the wrong size in the picture. I fixed it by adding a foam cover so that you cannot see it error.

Screw the box in. Go at an angle so that you can hold it in more securely. Attach the amplifier and make sure that the sense wire connected to the switch we added earlier so that you can turn it on and off I permanently attached the connection because I wanted to turn off the power hungry psu, not the amp.

Once you have painted you box, you may want to put a lacquer finish on it. I sanded my box down to a very smooth finish and then applied a high gloss spray finish to it. It looks really nice now and is even more durable. You just want to make sure you put a lot of light coats on instead of 3 heavy coats. It dries very fast so there is no reason to rush it. I put a slightly to heavy coat on one side and had to sand it down and re-coat it. Once your lacquer has dried for 24 hours, 12 if you use fast drying type you can add carpet material or something to stop the sound from bouncing around a lot.

I found old carpet material from when our house was being constructed. You may be able to find some from a dumpster or somewhere. I don't recommend taking it from your living room floor XD. Use a staple gun or hammer and nails to hold it down. Remember to cut the carpet smaller than necessary. Well you work desk probably looks like this Measure the length of wires you need and then solder them to your crossover unit if required.

Some speakers require that you sold the wires to it instead of being clamped in.

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